GE Microwave Not Working, but Has Power

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Paradise Appliance
February 3, 2025
Microwave Repair

So, you’ve tested the power outlet and confirmed the display lights up, the cavity light comes on, or you’ve found another way to prove that your GE microwave is receiving power—yet it still won’t work. What’s the deal?

Well, there are a few possible issues that might be causing your microwave to act up despite having power. In this article, we’ll go over all the most likely causes and give you some tips on how to fix them.

Keep reading to find out how to get your GE microwave up and running again—or if it’s time to consider upgrading to a new one.

Why Isn’t My GE Microwave Working Even Though It Has Power?

Let’s run through the most likely culprits causing your GE microwave to stop working.

1. There’s a Problem With One of the Door Switches

As a safety measure, your GE microwave won’t turn on if the door is open. How does it know if the door is open? Thanks to the three or so interlock door switches which send a signal to the control board when they’re activated. The problem is, if one or more of these switches is faulty, the microwave may think the door is open when it isn’t, so it halts operations.

  • Handy tip: Faulty door switches are pretty common in GE microwaves. Try not to slam the door—it’ll help them last longer.

Here’s how you can check and test the door switches:

  1. Unplug your GE microwave.
  2. If you have an over-the-range model, you will likely need to remove the grille at the top of the microwave. For countertop models, you will need to remove the microwave’s outer cover.
  3. Next, remove the control panel to access the door switches. The control panel will be secured with screws and you may need to disconnect its wires.
  4. Disconnect the wires from each switch. Take a photo of the wire positions for reassembly.
  5. Set your multimeter to the continuity mode then test each switch. When the switch is pressed, the multimeter should show continuity (a beep or low resistance).
  6. Replace any faulty switches with new ones.

2. The Line Fuse Is Blown

The line fuse, also known as the main fuse, often blows when one of the door switches goes bad—though other electrical issues could also be the cause. So, if you’ve found that a door switch is bad, you might also need to replace the line fuse.

Here’s how to replace it:

  1. Unplug the microwave.
  2. For over-the-range models, remove the top grille and then the control panel. For countertop models, remove the outer casing and then the control panel.
  3. You’ll usually find the line fuse behind the control panel, near the top. It’s typically made of ceramic or glass.
  4. To remove the fuse, gently pull it straight out of the fuse holder.
  5. Use a multimeter to check the fuse. If it’s blown, it will show no continuity.
  6. When installing a new fuse, make sure to buy a matching replacement, and gently push it into the fuse holder to install it.

3. The Thermal Fuse Is Blown

Your GE microwave won’t work if its thermal fuse is blown. However, it might still light up and show signs of life. The thermal fuse is a safety device that stops the microwave from running when it’s triggered—usually due to overheating or a power surge.

Here’s how you can test and replace the thermal fuse:

  1. Unplug the microwave.
  2. Remove the microwave’s top grille or outer cover (depending on the model), then take off the control panel.
  3. Discharge the high-voltage capacitor using a screwdriver with an insulated handle by shorting its terminals.
  4. Locate the thermal fuse—it’s typically near the magnetron.
  5. Disconnect the wires attached to the thermal fuse.
  6. Use a multimeter set to ohms to check for continuity.
  7. If the multimeter shows a reading close to zero ohms, the fuse is fine. If there’s no reading or it shows infinite resistance, the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced.

4. The Magnetron Has Failed

The magnetron is the part of your microwave that generates the electromagnetic waves that heat your food. If it fails completely, your GE microwave won’t work, even though it’s still getting power.

Before it fully gives out, you might notice your microwave making a louder-than-usual buzzing noise while running—this is another clue that the magnetron could be the problem.

Unfortunately, the magnetron can’t be repaired and will need to be replaced. It’s not the simplest or cheapest component to replace, but here’s a general guide to how it’s done:

  1. Unplug the microwave.
  2. On countertop models, remove the outer casing. For over-the-range models, you’ll first need to take the microwave down from the wall and then remove the outer cover.
  3. Safely discharge the high-voltage capacitor.
  4. Locate the magnetron. It’s a metal box-like component.
  5. Take a photo of how the wires are connected to the magnetron before disconnecting them.
  6. Remove the screws holding the magnetron in place.
  7. If you’re unsure whether the magnetron is the problem, test it with a multimeter for continuity.
  8. If it’s faulty, buy a replacement and install it in the same location as the old one. Make sure to secure it with the screws and reconnect the wires just like before.

If you’re not confident carrying out these steps or working with high-voltage components, it’s a smart idea to call in a professional. And if your GE microwave is over 7 years old, you might want to ask yourself if it’s worth spending money on repairs—or if it’s time to invest in a new microwave instead.

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